It was on a warm autumn evening last October that I returned home to our house in Ozias to a most peculiar sight. Small silver fish, barely bigger than your little finger littered the yard, floundering for breath in the autumn dusk. The source of the commotion was a yellow fishing net that now lay extended the length of the yard. The net while not exactly full, was certainly plentiful, the thin nylon mesh clinging to the gills and fins of hundreds of little fish. A happy production line of sorts ensued as Babis pulled at the net while his children, sitting on upturned crates retrieved the fish, before they were dropped into a variety of containers. The workforce was ably supervised by the grandmother, who stood hands on hips, offering out instruction, occasional remonstration and refreshments. She conducted the proceedings with the look of someone who knew exactly what she was doing. Frieda the dog slumped at her feet lazily eyeing events, mindful and cautious of the neighbourhood cats who had already laid stake to any leftovers. Fishing expeditions, as this was, are common during the off season on Paxos. Whether its jigging for calamari in the cold winter months, casting nets for autumnal whitebait or spear hunting elusive deep water groupers. Fishing is, and always has been central to the island, and even though the overfishing of the Mediterranean has been well documented, such exercises when undertaken in moderation are important. These individual activities of friends and families do not threaten the balance of our ecosystem; taking just what you need, where the thrill of the hunt is as good as the prizes you take. This idea is also relevant to what we do with our cooking during the summer. It is important for us to understand what is sustainable, how it is caught and what can be done with it. It is equally important that, in a world where understanding where our food comes from has gained more and more significance, that we take the time to inform our guests what we offer and why we offer it. This issue comes into acute contrast at this time of year when I am writing our summer menus for the new season. Choosing which fish we want to feature is a choice not just based on what is available on Paxos but more importantly what is readily available. Taking it further is to consider the issue of carbon footprint. It is widely understood choosing seafood over other animal products can be one way to lower our carbon footprint. On average seafood generates less carbon per unit of protein than beef and pork, with a carbon footprint similar to that of poultry. But within that it is the small surface schooling species such as herring, sardine and anchovy that we should be looking at as the most carbon efficient and it is the virtue of these delicious little fish I wish to promote... To visit the fish stand in Gaios of an early morning is a rewarding experience. Chaotic competition exists alongside carefree tourist curiosity. Restaurant owners argue over the largest scorpion fish, giagias muscle their way to the front and old paxiot friends volunteer opinions on the morning catch; the entire spectacle regarded over by a self interested clowder of town cats. Yet for all the choice that exists on those warm summer mornings I am most drawn to waiting in line when I see the flash of the silver skin of sardines, mackerel and anchovies. I love using these little fish. Sustainable and not overfished, they are umami bombs, like the bacon of the sea! Anchovies (gavros to the Greeks) in particular always pull me in. Caught in big numbers after the night of a full moon, they feed in shoals close to the surface, shimmering in the moonlit night and are incredibly versatile.
When we think of anchovies in the UK we think of those salty, brown little fillets that adorn caesar salads. The marmite of pizza toppings, they polarise people into the yes pleases and the no ways! However anchovies in their raw form are much different than what we are used to within those familiar ring pull supermarket tins. Like silver bullets, their flesh is delicate and intensely savoury. I use them to develop a base for sauces or stuffed into lamb shanks, but taking the time to marinate them with the best extra virgin olive oil is to create something truly special.
My Anchovy Salad This dish has Italy at its heart and its origins date back to a beautiful lunch we shared with our friends Italo and Fra last summer. From their home overlooking the island of Panagia they had prepared a feast of antipasti, fresh seafood and pasta. Small plates punctuated with big flavours, but it was the delicate white marinated anchovies that came out first that I will never forget. They lay white and uncomplicated on a plate alongside a simple bruschetta of tomato and basil. The brilliance of simple flavours! My salad featured last year on our menu and will certainly reappear this summer. The salad itself is a simple panzanella, a classic summer salad originating from Tuscany. I combine raw and confit tomato, fresh cucumber, leftover Loggos bread, caper berries and delicately pickled fennel. The dish is finished with fresh herbs, plenty of olive oil and the beautiful anchovies, some marinated and some torched under a hot grill.
The process to marinate the anchovies is simple but perhaps a little time consuming.
• First clean the anchovies by removing the head and innards and clean the cavities under running water
• To remove the backbone, lay the anchovy flat skinside up on a wooden board and gently push on the backbone. The action will push it free and you will be able to pull the whole bone free. (Try and keep the whole fish intact)
• Clean the fish again under running water and lay flesh side up in a shallow container.
• In a bowl combine 250ml good quality dry white wine and 250ml of white wine vinegar, together with the juice of 2 lemons.
• Pour over the marinade and cover the butterflied anchovies flesh side up for one to one and a half hours.
• After this drain the marinade (the anchovies will have turned pale signifying they are 'cooked').
• Lay the anchovies in a clean dish and season with a little good quality sea salt. Then cover the fish with the best olive oil, chopped parsley, lime zest, fresh chill and grated garlic, ensuring they are totally submerged.
• After two hours they are ready!